|

Markha Valley
|
|
Manali-Leh
Highway
This
is the classic ride of the Indian Himalaya. The second highest road in
the world winds from the pine-clad Kullu Valley through breathtakingly
raw, high altitude scenery to the stark moonscape of Ladakh, 475km later.
Over half of the route traverses a landscape so high and so barren that
there’s no human habitation at all – only marmots, wild donkeys
and birds of prey. Weird, wind-eroded landforms loom out of the surrounding
mountains - arches, turrets and antennae in pinks, greens and oranges.
The five passes, two of which cross 5,000m, drop down to grassland plateaus
- perfect for camping. For all its remoteness, there are the odd flashes
of 'civilisation' - a video hall at an army camp, or bunkbeds of roadworkers
at Zing Zing Bar watching a pirate copy of Jurassic Park.
| Time |
7-10
days. |
| When
to Go |
June
– October. Road is guaranteed open each year from 15 June to
15 September. |
| What
to Take |
For
speedy cycling, you can leave the tent and stove behind. Dhabas, guesthouses
and parachute tents en route can rustle up a rug and hot meal, if
you can do days long enough to reach them on the remoter stretches.
However, it’s really worth taking camping kit as this must be
some of the most spectacular camping in the world, and it’ll
give you the freedom to explore the stunning lakes of Tso Kar and
Tso Moriri on the Tibetan plateau. |
| Permits |
Not
required for the main highway, though an alternative (and more demanding
route) from Upshi to Pang via Mahe Bridge, Tso Moriri and Tso Kar
currently requires an Inner Line Permit, only available in Leh. Areas
are opening up all the time so check, as this is a beautiful and extremely
remote region. |
| Road
Conditions |
Roughly
75% of the Leh-Manali Hway is tarmac. Tar-blackened roadcrews and
rock-cracking women crouched at the side of the road will become a
familiar sight. Early in the summer, river crossings can be wild and
wet, though landslides are infrequent. |
| Direction |
Despite
the fact that Leh lies 1,500m above Manali, most cyclists do it the
hard way by starting from the south. For many, the road stands as
a rite of passage from the crowds of the Indian subcontinent to the
remote and ancient kingdom of Ladakh, high in the Himalayas. Apart
from its romantic appeal, this direction allows for proper acclimitisation.
Beginning in the south, the passes rise steadily from 3978m (Rohtang),
to 4883m (Baralacha La), 5060m (Lachlung & Namika La) and peak
at 5328m (Taglang La). And it’s not as masochistic as it seems
– tentless cyclists from Leh face a 2,000m climb from Upshi
to Taglang La, followed by a sprint across the Morey Plains before
reaching the first food and water at Pang, 125km away. |
| Planning |
Many
cyclists travel to the Indian Himalaya specifically to cycle the Manali-Leh
Hway. 3 weeks is sufficient time to arrive in Delhi, reach Manali
then ride - once in Leh, daily flights across the Great Himalaya and
Zanskar ranges return to Delhi, weather permitting. See General Info
for details of travel agents who run cycling trips from Manali - Leh. |
|
|