Markha Valley

Kit & the Bike

Kit:
Wherever you are in the Himalaya, warm clothing and a high-factor suncream (SPF30+) are a must. Waterproofs will be particularly welcome when descending from passes in wet or freezing conditions - Taglang La, the final pass before Leh, has a particularly bad reputation for strong winds and driving rain/hail/snow. One set of clothes for when you're on the bike, and a set for when you're off will be fine. Tight lycra isn't appreciated on either sex, and light colours will get grimy very fast - more practical are 3/4 length trousers and loose, dark coloured T-shirts. In the Muslim regions of Jammu & Kashmir, modesty is even more important - in rural areas women will feel much more at ease if their arms and heads are covered. Ladakh and Himachal Pradesh also have some fantastic trekking routes which can be done in lightweight trainers - very useful, especially if you're plotting to cross Zanskar on foot, with your bike on a horse... (see Route Plans).
Lightweight tourers need little more than clothes, toiletries and spare parts, but to fully experience the region, it's much better to camp. Undoubtedly, this will increase the weight you're carrying, but the experience of brewing up your own tea under a panorama of Himalayan stars without another soul in sight is more than worth it. Travellers with a multifuel stove will find cheap kerosene everywhere, though you'll spend less time cleaning the jet if you use petrol (only available in major towns). Unleaded fuel and helicopter jet fuel are available in Manali. A warm sleeping bag will keep you comfortable at high altitude, as will a tent. If you're touring for more than a month or so, consider investing in a water filter, rather than using iodine or chlorine water-purifying tablets long-term. AquaPure (www.aquapuretraveller.com) make a filter which fits onto a bike water-bottle and is good for 350 litres before replacing the cartridge, traditional Katadyn models (www.katadyn.ch) are exceptionally tough and last up to 50,000 litres.

The Bike:
Don't fret too much about what kind of bike to bring out to the Indian Himalaya - every year intrepid souls ride these roads and passes on single-geared Indian Heros, proving that anything is possible. Front suspension will undoubtedly make the rough roads of Lahaul & Spiti less bone-shaking, but more important are strong wheels to cope with the potholes and touring load. Elsewhere, a rigid bike with decent tyres will be fine. Die-hard mountain bikers should bring their favourite bike - there's fantastic off-road potential on the ancient yak track trading routes. Indians love 'sykels', so expect your bike to get fondled.
Essential spare parts are inner tubes, brakepads for V-brakes, and a chain. It's illegal to import foreign bicycles (or parts) into India, so be prepared. If you use SPDs, bring spare cleats. The dusty conditions and frequent stream crossings will quickly play havoc with your chainset, so pack lots of good quality oil and a spare cloth for regular bike love-ins. 26" knobbly tyres are available for $3, though poor quality. Common setups are touring bikes with front and rear panniers, mountain bikes with rear panniers and front suspension, and mountain bikes with Bob trailers. I rode my trusty steel Thorn Nomad with front and rear Ortlieb panniers and a handlebar bag.

Spiti Valley

Manali - Leh Hway

Manali-Leh